Located in the central Limousin region, Limoges has a somewhat underserved reputation among the French as a city lacking in great architecture or culture. Haughty Parisians turn their noses up at the city, dubbing it Limoche (moche, meaning ugly). Limoges residents, however, beg to differ, and while much of the city's architecture is, in fact, unremarkable, there are some excellent attractions and monuments. The city is also very well-located to take advantage of the natural beauty of the Limousin region, with nearby lakes St Pardoux and Le Campagnard offering boating, fishing and hiking.
Perhaps the most famous product of Limoges is porcelain. To experience the production of porcelain, head straight to the excellent Musée national Adrien Debouché, located in the place Winston Churchill. It is the national museum dedicated to porcelain, glass and ceramics, and here you will find exhibits detailing the way in which porcelain is produced. Various displays offer examples of porcelain from around the world, including Delft from the Netherlands, English bone china and vases from the Tang dynasty. Visitors to the museum can also pick up their own Limoges porcelain in the gift shop.
The city offers a number of tours, including an evening walking tour of historic landmarks, which have been specially illuminated as part of a “Parcours Lumière”. Constructed in slate, the city's mairie is a centrepiece of the parcours. The covered market at the place de la Motte holds regular produce markets, as well as a special Christmas market in December. From there, you can walk along the rue de la Boucherie to take in examples of 14th century wood-beamed houses and shops.
An excursion from Limoges, which is worth the effort, is a trip to Ourador sur-Glane. This small town was the site of a brutal Nazi massacre in World War II, and the site has been left essentially untouched since the end of the war. It is a moving tribute to the victims of the war, and something that should not be missed for its educational value.
