Brest is a coastal city in Brittany, which centres on its large port and French naval base, with the atmosphere of a typical French maritime working town. Although the city has a long heritage, very little of this history remains today as reflected in its architecture, as over 80% of the city was destroyed during World War II. Unlike its neighbours, such as St. Malo, Brest did not rebuild or repair its historic cathedrals, civic buildings or monuments. Instead, the town was reconstructed largely in concrete between 1946-1961, under the master plan of architect Jean-Baptiste Mathon.
The result is a hilly, uniform city of concrete, devoid of the twisting cobblestone alleys, which many seek on a visit to Brittany. Of the remaining structures, the incongruous Tour de Tanguy stands out. It is a sole medieval tower amongst modern buildings, which now houses a historical reconstruction of Brest before 1939. Worth a visit is the Brest arsenal, housing the Musée Nationale de la Marine Château. This enormous waterfront fortification is home to the marine museum and is surrounded by lovely, manicured parkland.
The city's naval base is actually open to the public, as long as you can furnish valid identification as a NATO representative or EU citizen. At the base, you can climb aboard a war ship or observe the activities of a working military base. The highlight of Brest's maritime ambience is the Oceanopolis aquarium, with sea life from polar, tropical and temperate climates.
In spite of Brest's lacklustre architecture, and absence of quaint, cobbled streets, there are a number of activities, shops and markets to keep you busy. The two nearby islands of Molène and Ouessant offer excellent days out. Take a boat over to one of them and hire bicycles for the day. There are several good street markets, notably the one at nearby Saint-Renan, as well as typical French shops and boutiques. Brest can be good base for visiting other towns in the region.
